Cultural Appreciation of Odia Cuisine in Delhi through Odissian Temple Prasad
PEOPLE CONNECT TO THEIR CULTURAL OR ETHNIC GROUPS THROUGH FOOD PATTERNS.
Food is often used as a means of retaining their cultural identity. People from different cultural backgrounds eat different foods. The areas in which families live and where their ancestors originated influence food like and dislikes. These food preferences result in patterns of food choices within a cultural or regional group. People also connect to their cultural or ethnic groups through food patterns.
The Odia diaspora in New Delhi assimilates itself through its cultural identities, dominated by religious affiliations and culinary heritage. Both of these are cumulatively found in the famous Jagannath temples in the Delhi-NCR region.
The temples have a unique tradition of serving authentic Odia cuisine as a daily practice, but what catches the eye, is the similarity they follow with the Puri Jagannath temple i.e. by providing the same prasad. By means of their regional cuisine and temple rituals, the Odias here too are trying to make an identity for themselves.
New Delhi, being a confluence of cultures, has been a potpourri of assimilating traditions and rituals. My study would attempt at understanding how the Odia migrants in the city have managed to retain these traditions, and how in turn impact and influence the overall culture of Delhi.
FOOD AS A SYMBOL OF CULTURAL IDENTITY
‘Cultural identity is the identity or feeling of belonging to a group. It is part of a person’s self-conception and self-perception and is related to nationality, ethnicity, religion, social class, generation, locality, or any kind of social group that has its own distinct culture. In this way, cultural identity is both characteristic of the individual but also of the culturally identical group of members sharing the same cultural identity or upbringing. ‘(Moha 19-23)
With the proliferation of cultures and regional identities through different areas, food as an important component has also traveled, bringing together people in the best possible way. The cultural value of food hence facilitates the formation of cultural identities and facilitates the feeling of oneness, especially in a foreign land.
Food is a “living” form of culture that is still
practiced and continues to evolve.
People also connect to their cultural or ethnic groups through food patterns and often used as a means of retaining their cultural identity. People from different cultural backgrounds eat different foods. The areas in which families live and where their ancestors originated influence food likes and dislikes. These food preferences result in patterns of food choices within a cultural or regional group.
FOOD AND ITS RELIGIOUS IMPORTANCE
‘The role of food in religious culture is an important part of showing respect among their communities and many of these religions obey the religious commandments, hence food is prepared in different ways.”
The meaning of food is an exploration of culture through food. What we consume, how we acquire it, who prepares it, who’s at the table, and who eats first is a form of communication that is, it has a rich cultural base. Food sheds light on our cultural beliefs, and religious traditions and brings people together through a community, by conveying religious sentiments of the people, making them unique and having their own identity.
Food has symbolic meanings based on association with other meaningful experiences. An example of the symbolic meanings including food references can be found in many of our common expressions. cultural food practices were integral to their identities. Specifically, social interactions around food (both cultural events and social eating) are fundamental in the construction of participants’ cultural and ethnic identities.
Prasad in Hinduism
Indians make an offering of food to the Lord and later partake of it as prasaada – a holy gift from the Lord. What we offer to God is Naivedyam. When it comes back to us, it becomes Prasada. Literally, a gracious gift. Prasada, in Hinduism, food and water are offered to a deity during worship. It is believed that the deity partakes of and then returns the offering, thereby consecrating it. The offering is then distributed and eaten by the worshippers. The efficacy of the prasada comes from its having been touched by the deity. Food left by a spiritual leader is considered prasad by the guru’s followers, as the guru is regarded as a living god. All food, if silently offered to God with the proper prayers before eating, becomes consecrated and is thus considered Prasada.
TEMPLE FOOD OF ODISHA
Odia love food, owing to the importance of it in the religious culture of the state. Odia cuisine is very simple yet delicious, prepared in little or no oil which gives out the flavors of the spices that are sparingly used themselves. The spread is vast and is very easy on the palate.
Temples were the epicenter of socio-cultural activities in ancient Odisha. The social customs and festivals were all centered around it. Many of the recipes of Odia cuisine originated from the temples, the most talked about being the Kheera Mohana popularly known as Rasagulla.
The temple cuisine comprises indigenously grown local cereals and vegetables, cooked in traditional methods using wood charcoal and earthen pots. The recipe is passed on from generation. The food is simple yet tastes heavenly and is much sought after.
It is said that no foreign ingredients are used in preparing the mahaprasad served at the Jagannath Temple. The bhog cookbook comes with unique guidance around recipes, ingredients, the way of cooking and the different stages of serving the bhog.
The prasad in Odisha is not just limited to a standard laddu. A total of 56 holy Hindu dishes are cooked on a daily basis in the streets of Bhubaneshwar and Puri, both in Odisha. The Prasāda or Chappan Bhog (56 Bhogas) are offered first to Lord Jagannath followed by Maa Bimala, both in Sri Jagannath Temple.
PRASADS ABUNDANT
The temples have a unique tradition of serving authentic Odia cuisine as a daily practice, but what catches the eye, is the similarity they follow with the Puri Jaganath temple i.e. by providing the same prasad. By the means of their regional cuisine and temple rituals, the Odias here too are trying to make an identity for themselves
Mahaprasad
Mahaprasad includes wet food items like rice, butter rice, hing-ginger rice, mixed rice, sweet dal, mixed vegetable curries of different types, and porridge, etc. ‘Mahaprasad’ is a commonly used term by rest of the world, but the people of Puri also called the Sankhudi Mahaprasad as ‘Abhada’.
Kotha Bhoga
After being offered to the Deities, Kotha Bhoga is distributed to different servitors providing their services to the temple kitchen as per temple record.
Baradi Bhoga
Baradi Bhoga or common Bhoga is prepared daily for the pilgrims and visitors to the Jagannath Temple and meant for selling in Ananda bazar.
Prasad sweets
Sweet dishes including Kahaja, Sarapuri, Amalu, Khurma, Magaja Ladoo, Kakara etc made from flour, sugar, wheat, jaggery, rice flours, and ghee, etc..
LEGEND OF THE MAHAPRASAD
The Mahaprasad has been mentioned in 26 Puranas or ancient Hindu scriptures. The Hindu devotees believe that accepting Mahaprasadam is akin to having a darshan of Lord Jagannath. The Mahaprasad doesn’t discriminate. The Mahaprasad can be consumed by people from all genders, caste and creed.
As per the ancient Hindu scripture, Skanda Purana Bhagwan Jagannath redeems his devotees by allowing them his darshan, performing rituals, worshipping him, accepting his prasad and showering him with gifts.
Not only does having Jagannath Temple Prasad washes away your sins, it also brings you freedom from the cycle of birth and death. It is said that one gets salvation after death upon having Mahaprasad.
ODIA DIASPORA IN NEW DELHI
Of the 3.1% of the Indian population is Odia-speaking, out of which a sizeable amount resides in the capital city of Delhi. Delhi, being the melting pot of cultures and languages, has gladly accepted and welcomed immigrants incoming from other states in search of better life and opportunities. People from Odisha too, have found their significant place in this multi-cultural delta.
An otherwise under-the-radar state, that is often mistaken to be a part of Bengal, without any distinctive identity of its own, it is rather surprising to see that Odia residents of Delhi have managed to create their own niche for the promotion of their culture outside their hometowns and unite Odia people in their own ways.
ORGANIZATIONAL NETWORKING
Organizations have been established along with cultural centers that are responsible for the promotion and presentation of Odia culture for the non-Odias and as an attempt to keep the migrant population closer to their state. The Odia Samaj, Juhar Parivar, New Delhi Odia Association, Odia Cultural and Welfare Association are some of the many cultural groups set up by Odia residents in the capital in an effort to bring a piece of their home here and contribute to the plurality of culture in the metropolis. These organizations, mostly non-profitable, ensure the celebration of Odia-specific festivals such as Nuakhai, Raja-fair and Boita, which may not be common to the non-Odia diaspora.
Of the 3.1% of the Indian population is Odia-speaking, out of which a sizeable amount resides in the capital city of Delhi. Delhi, being the melting pot of cultures and languages, has gladly accepted and welcomed immigrants incoming from other states in search of better lives and opportunities. People from Odisha too, have found their significant place in this multi-cultural delta.
The community has found its own way of celebrating its culture and maintaining its ethos in aan immigrant land. The Odia diaspora in the city has managed to create a home away from home, with similar efforts to replicate the festivals from back home- one of the major annual events, also being backed by the Ministry of Culture, Government of Odisha is the ‘Odisha Parba’. The occasion opens an arena for not just the community to celebrate and cherish their culture, but also provides an opportunity for people from other cultures, to interact, engage and appreciate the Odia culture.
Source: Odisha Hotel Website
ODIA FOOD IN DELHI
Delhi is often called India’s food capital. The city offers a vast multitude of eating options from a diverse set of lands – courtesy of the millions of expats living here. Yet, there are few cuisines whose visibility on the city’s potpourri is scarce. Oriya food is one of them. Good Oriya food was only available at Delhi Haat or Orissa Niwas. But, now a recently opened restaurant in Saket, called Odisha Hotel, is giving these places serious competition by serving all the classic Oriya dishes.
Everything at the Odisha Hotel, from the staff to the menu, is curated with strict adherence to the traditions of the coastal land. The menu here is replete with household Oriya dishes like Machha Jhola, Dalma, Kodi Khatta, Bodi Chorro, and others that a person with a penchant for the cuisine will find hard to relinquish.
All the dishes are simplistic in taste, but extremely intricate in their preparation. They are served in the traditional bronze cutlery that elevates the taste of the food even further. For desserts, they serve luscious Kheer, Malpua, or Odisha’s classic Chenna Poda.
Having said that there aren’t many places that serve Odia cuisine in the metropolitian. And the most authentic experience is hence savored in the Odissian temples in the capital.
ODISSIAN TEMPLES IN DELHI
“THESE TEMPLES ARE ALSO CENTRAL LOCATIONS OF LIP-SMACKING ODIA CUISINE ”
Given the popularity of Odisha’s central deity Lord Jagannath, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, and owing to the religious sentiments attached to the Lord Jagannath Temple at Puri, several individuals and groups have also led to the replication of the temple model at various places in the city- the main one being the Jagannath temple in Hauz Khas and a secondary one in Lodhi Colony.
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With the expansion of the diaspora within Delhi as well, parts of NCR have seen an upsurge in the temple. In Noida, Ghaziabad, Greater Noida, and Faridabad newer temples have come up.
Apart from serving the purpose of a common Odia community space, these temples are also central locations of lip-smacking Odia cuisine being served at reasonable costs and a stage for a celebration of religious and cultural events.
TEMPLES AS A UNITING SPACE FOR ODIAS
During the recent past, since 2012, the Society has been intensively engaged in promoting the rich culture tradition of Odisha like classical dance form of Odissi, folk dances like Chhau, Sambalpuri, Paala, Daskathia etc which are being organised during 9 day celebration of Rath Yatra Mahotsav in June-July, Kartik Poornima Mahotsav (October-November), Masika Shri Jagannath Sanskrutika Samaroha (on every second Saturday of a month).
The Society has also a well-developed Library Hall with grand collection of religions books and is open for public for reference and research purpose. The Library Hall is also used for organising conferences, workshops with all modern facilities of slide projection etc. The society has renovated two big Prasad hall for arranging marriage, engagement, and bratghar ceremonies with all sorts of sitting and dining facilities for about 200-300 guests in the Prasad halls.
Prasad modifications for Delhi
‘ALL ITEMS ARE PREPARED STRICTLY WITHOUT APPLICATION OF RAJASIK INGREDIENTS LIKE ONION AND GARLIC.’
New Delhi, being a confluence of cultures, has been a potpourri of assimilating traditions and rituals. The prasad, served in the Jagannathas temples in Delhi, hence, though aims to bring a slice of Odisha to the metropolitan, but also assimilates with the Delhi food culture to make it accessible and delightful enough for non-Odias to try and gorge on.
Besides the daily ritual of cooking Prasad for the Lord, Prasad is also cooked for 300-400 persons daily in the temples. With the grace of Lord Jagannath and the sincere efforts in cooking prepared by the trained and experienced pujaris under utmost hygienic conditions, Anna Prasad served to the devotees/guests is appreciated for its flavor and unique taste. Special items such as paneer (Pressed Cheese) and a combination of Seasonal vegetables are prepared as per the specific request made by the devotees/guests on bulk booking of such requests. Vyanjan Special items are Ghaanta, Aalu-potal rasa, Dahi-baigan, paneer, simla mirch-matar, Dkhoka Rassa, alu-gobi, panas, dahi-vada, etc
ANNA PRASAD
SHRI JAGANNATH MANDIR, TYAGRAJ NAGAR, DELHI
Anna Prasad is a divine Bhog offered to Lord Jagannath twice daily i.e., during lunch and dinner. This sacred prasad contains a variety of food like Arna, Dal, Mahuri, Ghanta, Saga, Chatni, Dalma, Kanika, Kheer, etc. This Prasad is offered to Maa Bimla first then it is called Maha Prasad. This prasad is prepared in the kitchen of Lord Jagannath by Pandit Ji after (Hawan/Puja) in the morning maintaining proper hygiene.
Source: Jagannath temple New Delhi Website
The Prasad prepared on a staple basis in the mandir is a testimony of the purity of the Maha Prasad prepared in the main temple of Puri, Odisha. Synonymous to the arrangement in the main temple premises, the temples here too have a floor seating arrangement where volunteers serve food in rows and the devotees embrace the simplicity with which the food is prepared and served.
Source: Jagannath temple New Delhi Website
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The staple menu of the temple includes rice, dalma (a dal with vegetables), Ghaanta tarkari (Odia mix vegetable) and kheer made of jaggery.
However the temple authorities provide special on-request facilities for a paneer gravy, raita, mix veg, and other staple north- Indian go-to’s for a feast.
These adjustments that cater to a larger audience should not be mistaken for cultural appropriation though. They are mere efforts of making the larger diaspora comfortable with the authentic food by giving them a side- along taste that they are already acquainted with. In addition, cross- cultural food practices are readily adopted in participants’ daily lives for a number of reasons such as the promotion of health, convenience, and variety.
Source: Jagannath temple New Delhi Website
LEGACY OF THE PURI TEMPLE IN DELHI
The Hindu devotees firmly believe that it is the Goddess Mahalaxmi herself who supervises and cooks the food herself in disguise. The process of preparation of food is thus considered very sacred. The Jagannath Temple Prasad cooking method dates back hundreds of years.
In the Jagannath temples in Delhi too, with very strict and rigorous supervision of the members of the Working Committee, the quality of Anna Prasad is never compromised. On daily basis about 300-400 devotees/visitors take Anna Prasad at the Prasad Hall of the temple. Bulk booking of anna Prasad is provided on request. The menu includes all delicious pakwans as served at Puri Shri Mandir with availability of seasonal vegetables. of Late the Management has started promoting and marketing of all prominent Odia sweets like rasagolla, Chhena-Podo, Pheni, Gaja etc. Deliciously prepared by trained poojaries of the temple. These snacks and sweets items prepared in The Mandir are being popular day by day.
‘With the sincere efforts of all temple staff and Working
– Committee members Chhena poda, as prepared in the temple with its distinct flavour is gaining popularity in South Delhi and it is being made famous with its district name “Chhena-podo”. The temple is receiving specific orders for delivery of Chhena-Podo and rasagolla everyday. The Working Committee is also planning to popularize other odia delicious food items Pakhala by preparing and serving in the temple.’
FOOD AS AN EMOTION FOR DELHI ODIAS
As a part of the cultural assemblage amongst the Odia diaspora in Delhi, Odia cuisine acts as a binding factor for all Odias. As an effort to replicate the flavors of the eastern state, Odias in Delhi have also engaged in food festivals and the celebration of a day’s festivals for their favorite foods- the most popular being ‘pakhala divas’. The temple premises then serve as a platform to make such days bigger and brighter, as they act as providers and facilitators of Odia culture and moreover an assembly point for all Odias.
INFLUENCE OF TEMPLE FOOD ON ODIA COOKING
The powerful presence of the Shri Jagannath temple makes the food of the Puri and Cuttack regions heavily influenced by temple cooking. “If you dig deep into the history of Odia cuisine, you’ll find that the regional food of these two places was born in the temples. It spread from here and took on various forms,” says Acharya Dixit from the temple committee. The humble khichdi is the heart of the chhappan bhog, with 56 varieties prepared as daily offerings to Lord Jagannath. The ritual is believed to be in honor of Vishnu’s most famous avatar, Lord Krishna, who missed eight meals over a course of seven days, while sheltering his village from a deluge by holding up Mount Govardhan on his little finger.
Most gravy dishes are served with rice, and a bunch of khattas, chutneys made from tomato, mango, dates, or anything paired with spices that makes for a good, tangy sauce. The cuisine revels in inclusivity, and most dishes have vegetarian counterparts. “Daalma, a roasted moong dal preparation doesn’t even contain onion or garlic and still has a unique Odia flavour,” says consultant chef Sitaram Nayak, much inspired from the temple prasad prepared in Puri.
THE POPULARITY OF TEMPLE FOOD
Although temple food is auspicious and has a variety of restrictions and customs that need to be followed during its preparation and consumption, there has been widespread popularity of a similar menu at a local- homely level. Restaurants and even home cooks have replicated the ‘abadha’ and its complimentary food items and serve it in an almost similar fashion to fashion the prasad as an easily available meal to be savoured by all.